I must confess I did not know who the designer Manuel was. That was until I went on his studio tour in Nashville. Wow - have I been missing glitz and bling! Manuel is a designer for Rock & Roll and Country acts. The man is not a fashion designer; he is a costumer and an artist. His original designs have become the trademark of true American style. One name says it all; he is Manuel. He is often referred to as the “Rhinestone Rembrandt,” Here is a little history and background of Manuel.

He was born Manuel Arturo José Cuevas Martínez Sr.on April 23, 1938 in Coalcomán de Vázquez Pallares in Mexico as the fifth of twelve children of Esperanza and José Guadalupe Cuevas. Manuel’s fascination with his craft began at the age of seven, when his older brother, Adolfo, taught him how to sew. As a young boy growing up in a small village in Mexico, Manuel Cuevas Martinez once sold oranges on the side of the road to make money for a ticket to see a Western starring the Lone Ranger. Years later, as the chief designer in famed Western wear purveyor Nudie Cohen’s shop in California, Manuel’s first custom order was to design a shirt for none other than Clayton Moore - the Lone Ranger himself. From the time his brother first sat him at a sewing machine, Manuel’s destiny was set and he knew America was the place to make his dreams come true. He has made his own clothes ever since. During this time Manuel mastered a wide scope of the clothier’s art, including leather working, hat making, silver working and boot making.

In the late 1940’s Manuel began to commission prom dresses to the girls in his hometown saving his earnings to move to the USA. During the 1930s and ‘40s, as cowboy stars Tom Mix and Gene Autry rose to stardom, several immigrant custom tailors also found prominence. Rodeo Ben, Nathan Turk and Nudie Cohen brought their colorful fabrics, whimsical detailed embroidery, and elements of Slavic folk art to their designs, and the Western entertainers were soon snatching them up as quickly as they could be turned out.

With a natural flair for color and cloth, Manuel arrived in Los Angeles during the height of this era in the mid-1950s, and took a job as a fitter with Sy Devore, the Hollywood tailor to clients including Frank Sinatra, Bob Hope and the Rat Pack. However, he soon became bored with everyday clothing. Soon after, he went to work at the studio of master embroiderer Viola Grae, who taught him how to use the embroidery machines that are crucial to his design process today and where he met Nudie Cohn. He started work for Cohn around 1960, and later became head tailor and then head designer. He then married Nudie Cohn’s daughter, Barbara L. Cohn on September 4, 1965 in Los Angeles. They had a son, Manuel Cuevas, Jr. (born 1973) and they divorced around 1975.

Soon after opening his shop around 1974, Manuel purchased a dozen or so machines from the infamous designer, Nathan Turk. Turk had just closed up his business, Turk of Hollywood, due to health reasons. In a generous gesture, Turk never cashed Manuel’s check for those machines. Manuel has always admired Nathan Turk and has given credit to Turk for some of his inspirations. Manuel, himself has also been known to be generous in giving a few of his creations away to some of the newer up-coming country musicians who otherwise would do without. He then moved on to the world of costumes at Nudie’s famed western store, designing for the likes of Roy Rogers and the Lone Ranger. After 14 years in western wear, Manuel branched out and opened his own shop in North Hollywood, Manuel Couture. Eventually Manuel relocated to Nashville, TN in 1989 to continue his association with the music industy. The previous address was 1922 Broadway, Nashville, TN. It is a beautiful four-story 20th century building. A 7000 square foot brick house built in 1904 as brothel! When Manuel moved his company into this building he didn’t change a thing. The ornately detailed sliding doors, wooden trim, mantel and fireplaces matched the exquisite aesthetic of the garments they house. During the summer of 2013, Manuel began to move to his current location 800 Broadway. When we toured the new location, the company had been “settled in” for only a few weeks.

Manuel’s studio is so impressive on so many levels. First, every garment is made in-house and by-hand. Every Swarovski crystal is set by hand, a very tedious job considering the thousands and thousands that are on some garments. There are so many items to look at when you are in his studio; you do not know where to begin looking. Bling & glitz everywhere! There are garments for sale in the studio as it is also a retail store in the front of the building. You can try on garments, but I must warn you—they are heavy with all those crystals!!! To set all of these crystals, there is a 1951 stone setter machine that sets all of the Swarovski’s - it is the machine of choice compared to the newer machines.

Manuel himself works in his studio every day alongside his seamster, Carlos Bonola. Manuel’s right-hand lady, Corissa Benchley, manages the business— sales, accounts, client relations, in-store appointments and press inquiries. Manuel’s son, Manny, has a ready-to-wear line of his own inspired by Manuel and often collaborates with the master on couture pieces. Manuel’s two daughters, Morelia and Jesse-Justin run the shop; Morelia schedules and plans store events and off-site bookings, while Jesse Justin oversees business operations from Chicago where she is pursuing a law degree.

The second impressive item is a 10 year-long project. After a lifetime of achievements and countless ventures, Manuel chose to give back to the country that brought his dream to a reality. Manuel is more than a clothing designer. His story is the American Dream. A collection of 50 state jackets, one for each state in the USA, each painstakingly tailored to include specific details from each state’s history. The jackets are full of embroidered and rhinestone landscapes and titles. This project is breathtaking as well as extreme dedication. The collection is his way of saying thanks to a country that has offered him a life nearly beyond his imagination His creations are truly a work of art and can be found in museums nationwide, including Metropolitan, the Rock ‘n’ Roll Hall of Fame and even the Smithsonian. Locally, in Nashville, you can find his works on display at the Country Music Hall of Fame and if you’re just lucky enough to know Manuel’s close friend, Marty Stuart, his closet is rumored to hold over 3000 pieces of Country Cowboy Couture that includes masterpieces from Turk, Nudie and, of course, Manuel. He was responsible for making Johnny Cash the man in black. He crafted Elvis’ signature gold lamé suit. He fashioned the garments Bob Dylan wore when performing for the Pope. He has dressed all three Hank Williams. And if this is not enough to bring him a legendary status in music history, you can thank him for both The Rolling Stones and The Grateful Dead’s notorious insignias but, it doesn’t stop here: presidents, athletes, dancers, artists and movie stars have donned his glittering couture. He has done wardrobe for over 90 movies and 13 television shows.

Most of Manuel’s custom-made outfits, all of which are sold as custom-made with Manuel’s direct involvement, will normally sell from $5,000 to $7,500, yet some can cost $20,000 or more. A buyer can also opt to buy from Manuel’s’ ready to wear line, Manuel Limited Collection is offered a lower cost across the country at only the finest of Western Wear Stores.

Here are two quotes from Manuel: “Record companies call me to help fabricate personalities for their artists,” he declares. “I do for artists what they need—not what they think they need.” and “You have to measure your dreams and your efforts with the same ruler!”

Written by Robin Kunzer