Let’s start by saying that I never imagined myself as a pattern maker. I was a skilled pattern manipulator. It began with my favorite art jackets. Over a period of years, I had developed a favorite well-fitted jacket pattern with a square armhole and side panel. It was perfect for surface design or mixing fabrics, two of my favorite techniques.

When I began teaching art jacket classes and retreats to weavers and other surface designers, it was a painful realization that each student was beginning with a (different) pattern that required several mockups and so much fitting work that there was little time left for art jacket inspiration. However, no sense creating a complex art jacket if it is not comfortable and well fitting.

Where was the basic jacket pattern with easy fitting solutions included in the tissue pattern? I thought a good pattern would save each student hours of tracing off patterns and laboring through adjustments. Plus, if the instructor had made the jacket as a mock up in each size, even more time would be saved and a good fit easily attained.

As a member of the DC-based Potomac Fiber Arts Guild, I was eligible to apply for a grant to further an area of interest. I applied to collaborate with weavers and quilters using my pattern concept. I was fortunate to receive the grant; the experience allowed me to create patterns in four sizes to fit my weaving and quilting collaborators. Between us, we made eight jackets and I learned a lot about the limited sewing skills, but creative energy, of fiber artists who want to transfer their craft to jackets.

The pattern idea began to take a more developed shape in the summer of 2010 as I was compiling my results. Carrie Emerson, my friend and studio assistant, and I decided to explore the business issues involved in pattern making and ultimately became partners in the business. We both agreed to invest money and time towards the development of the pattern. Our jacket pattern was ready for sale within a year.

Here is an abbreviated list of the long process from concept to establishing the company to publishing and marketing our first pattern:

• Starting with the patterns from the grant, graded the patterns from S - XL with two fronts and two side panels for each size 
• Made a set of mock-ups to begin testing the pattern on real bodies 
• Began brainstorming company names, cover art possibilities, etc 
• Fall and Winter 2010/2011, held a couple of fitting events at stores and with sewing groups to try on samples and to test cover designs, company and product names 
• Kept extensive notes on fit, testers’ measurements, etc 
• Met with a lawyer to register the company name and trademark 
• Consulted with independent pattern makers we know for advice 
• Re-worked the pattern masters, adding sizes XS and XXL, walked masters and added markings Wrote preliminary directions 
• Sent hand-drafted patterns and directions with hand-drawn illustrations to testers for trial and comment 
• Worked with a graphic designer to create illustrated direction book and with another artist for the cover
• Chose a format and a printer for the patterns 
• Began stacking the pattern masters and preparing the hand drawn patterns with computer generated logo stickers for printing 
• Chose a website host and began creating the website and choosing credit card services 
• In spring of 2011, committed to our first booth at a retail show 
• Graphic designer helped us create logo, business papers, fit prescription pads, signs, etc. that coordi nated with the pattern cover 
• Made a new set of fitting samples for use at retail and trunk shows 
• In the summer of 2011, tested patterns and directions again with students at a jacket class 
• Sent finished patterns to McCall’s to print on tissue 
• Chose a local printer to print the direction books 
• Selected packaging materials 
• Wrote Common Fitting Adjustments, with illustrations by the graphic designer, for website 
• Began collecting photos of jackets for website gallery at a party to thank testers 
• Began selling on website August 2011 
• First retail show in September 2011 at the American Sewing Expo 
• Mailed copies of patterns and introductory letter to magazine editors 
• Published first online newsletter to support the pattern in Spring 2012

Since then, we have introduced several new patterns (jacket variations and pants), all of which require a similar process of drafting and grading the pattern, testing, revising, writing and illustrating instructions, and getting it all printed and packaged for sale. We continue to improve our original products based on feedback from wearable artists, customers, fabric makers, and others in the field and by digitizing the tissue patterns for printing. We continue to teach wherever we are invited, expand our repertoire of trade and retail shows, and seek opportunities to publish so sewers can make great art jackets.

We are so appreciative of all the friends of our company who have supported and helped us along the way, especially the entire Baltimore Chapter of ASDP, the pattern makers, artists and other ASDP members willing to share their expertise, and vendors who have promoted our patterns in their stores and booths.

Written by Rae Cumbie, Fit for Art Patterns