As an image consultant and custom couturier, I help my clients with all aspects of their wardrobe needs, from cleaning out closets to help choosing the right clothing styles and accessories, to custom design and alterations. Working with a bride is one of my favorite types of custom work. I can turn her fantasy into reality by designing the “perfect” gown to flatter her best features.
Even though there are hundreds of wedding dresses in the stores, a bride will utilize your dressmaking services because she can’t find the right gown, she wants a dress in a specific color/ fabric, or she is difficult to fit. As a custom dressmaker, you can design a gown for your bride by listening and understanding her needs and challenges.
There are many books and articles about style and body shapes, talking about apple, pear shapes, ovals, triangles and rectangular shapes, but I have found that there are six common anxiety-producing figure challenges to take into consideration when designing a custom gown: big bust, thick waist, wide hips, petite, plus size and tall and thin.
Below are some design solutions that can be utilized in combating these figure challenges:
Big Bust – build a corset with boning into the gown to help support the bust. Many brides today want a strapless gown; a built-in corset is a simple way to solve this challenge.
No waist – vertical seams and draped fabric help elongate the body. Avoid a design that has a too defined or fitted waistline. Focus on details in the neckline or shoulder area to bring the eye up. A mermaid silhouette can help a boyish figure appear more feminine.
Wide hips – A-line skirt silhouettes are best; an empire design is also good, where the detail in the bodice can help draw the eye upward. Horizontal necklines help widen the shoulders to balance the proportions.
Petite – simple, slim shapes that do not overpower the bride; a fitted bodice or a thin belt can flatter smaller bodies. Utilize drama in the shape of the garment, not small details. Trumpet style dresses will work for this figure type. Be wary of tea-length gowns, as they will make her appear shorter.
Plus size – consider fabrics that have weight and body; fabrics that are too lightweight and fluid can be too skimpy. A fitted bodice with a flowy soft skirt can flatter. Having details in the neckline and bodice area are good accents that can bring the attention to her face. Avoid overly shiny fabrics, which can add pounds visually.
Tall and thin – avoid a big skirt, a long and fitted silhouette is better. Enhance her curves with bias cuts, contrasting fabrics, or horizontal lines. An overall beaded gown adds volume and can make this figure appear larger. Diagonal and bias lines help define shape; contrasting fabrics at the bust add definition.
Dresses with ruching at the bust can help a small chest appear larger.
Anyone, with any body type, can create the illusion of more perfectly balanced proportions through her choice of clothes. It is largely a matter of revealing assets and concealing challenge areas through optical illusion.
You want your bride to shine on her wedding day, so guide her with the right design choices to flatter her best assets. Today’s trends, like larger-than-life, avant-garde style ruffles, may be in style, but be mindful that whatever you design doesn’t overpower your bride, where the dress is wearing the bride, not the other way around.
Helena Chenn, AICI CIM, is a wardrobe expert and certified image master, an industry leader in the field of wardrobe styling and fit. Her specialties include: comprehensive wardrobe design for private clients, complete closet organization, professional personal shopping, and exceptional tailoring and alterations for both men and women. She is co-author of Image Power: Top Image Experts Share What to Know to Look Your Best and an active member of the prestigious Association of Image Consultants International (AICI), Association of Sewing & Design Professionals (ASDP), and the American Sewing Guild (ASG).
www.helenachenn.com
Written by Helena Chen
